(A) the quality and wearability requirements interlining cloth
1. Hot melt adhesive coating on the lining even with fabric glue to achieve a certain degree of peel strength over the life unglued;
2. Pressing interlining with fabric adhesive at a suitable temperature, will not damage the fabric and affect the fabric feel pressure when hot;
3. The shrink-fit and fabric lining consistent pressure after hot bonding, with good shape retention;
4. Pressing bond no positive (fabric side) or the back (side lining) infiltration material phenomenon;
5. Lining shrinkage to be consistent with the fabric, the fabric after bonding with good compatibility, washed with water to maintain the appearance of smooth, do not wrinkle, do not fight volumes;
6. Permanent pressure-sensitive adhesive interlining cloth must have good washing resistance, dry cleaning or washing, washed, not unglued, not sparkling;
7. Steam ironing processing capability;
8. Better follower and resilient, having suitable feel, soft to adapt to various parts of the clothing, the hard touch of the different requirements;
9. Better ventilation, to ensure comfort
10. It has anti-aging properties, and use in the lining of the storage period, adhesive strength unchanged, no aging yellowing;
11. Good sex can be cut when the cut will not stain blade, lining trimming will not stick to each other;
12. Good sewing on the sewing machine to slide freely, not contaminated needle. Of the lining does not require all of the above properties, but according to the needs of clothing and fabrics, according lining type, you can meet some of the main performance. Therefore, in the production of clothing, you must be in accordance with the requirements of the performance of clothing and fabrics to choose lining.
Full lining sticky inherent quality requirements:
Project woven interlining woven interlining non-woven (chemises) (coat with) interlining peel strength (N / 5 × 10cm) of not less than 18 128
Heat dimensional change of not less than warp -1.0% -1.5% -1.5% -1.0% -1.0% -1.5 latitudinal%
Washed dimensional change (%) of not less than warp -1.3% -1.5% -2.5% -1.5% -2.0% -1.0 latitudinal%
Change in appearance after bonding washing water washing times lower than the level of 522 444 Dry Cleaning frequency --55 rating --44
After bonding washed dimensional change (%) -2.0 -3.0 warp -2.0 -2.5 zonal breaking strength of not less than 60% to 60% of the fabric after fabric weft fabric fabric 50% 50%
Permeability material performance does not leak material does not leak material does not leak material
Anti-aging properties of anti-aging anti-aging anti-aging
(B) the main indicators and influencing factors
1. peel strength peel strength refers to the time required to be bonded fabric with interlining peel force units N / 5cm × 10cm expressed peeled potent factors affecting the following areas: (1) coating amount size: peel strength increases with increasing amount of hot melt adhesive coating, but the coating amount is too high will affect the fabric feel and generated an expected phenomenon (2) coating processing methods and conditions: coating uniformity resistance, metastasis particles, the particles in a molten state, etc., will affect the peel strength.
(3) the distribution density of the coating geometry and particles: they all have a greater impact on the peel strength. (4) hot melt adhesive Properties: hot melt adhesive properties, heat flow properties, peeling strength Powders are important factors. (5) the impact of the end of cloth: the base fabric fiber type, organization size, pre-treatment and the like. (6) Impact of fabric: Category, smooth surface extent of the fabric fibers, whether through organic silicone resin finishing or finishing. (7) Effect Pressing Processing: Pressing conditions Pressing Pressing equipment and methods.
2. Dimensional stability Dimensional stability has three meanings: First, heat dimensional change; the second is the size of the change after washing; the third is bonded dimensional change after washing.
3. Interlining cloth washing performance of washing performance including resistance to chemical dry-cleaning properties and washing performance. Washing performance for washing fabrics bonded after peeling strength decreased to represent, but more intuitive method is based on the number of washing and washing with or without degumming, blistering to identify. For permanent adhesive interlining, the wash performance is a very important indicator.
4. Other wearability (1) Feeling: interlining feel stiffness and drape available to represent. Requirements stiff lining, which can be used to measure the stiffness of the handle; require soft lining, can be used to measure its feel and drape, but more with people's feelings. (2) infiltration material properties: The fusible interlining by hot pressing process, never allow leaking hot melt adhesive on the back of the fabric or lining, otherwise it will affect the look and feel of clothing. Bleeding and hot melt coating material phenomenon is not only bad, but also with the way hot pressing, often pressing temperature is too high permeability material may occur. Further positive light fabric prone to bleeding, so the best selection and low light fabric coated amount of the fine points of the lining. (3) The following performance: new modern synthetic fabrics, particularly silk and wool fabrics, warp and weft have greater flexibility to make clothing made of chic and elegant, comfortable to wear. To do this requires a certain flexibility in the lining of warp and weft, or diagonal direction, can change along with changes in the fabric, which is made of high-grade lining quality requirements. (4) the permeability: hot melt adhesive itself is airtight, so use hot melt adhesive film or hot melt adhesive coating connected piece will affect the permeability of the lining. Hot melt adhesive coating lining coating method using non-linked lining to ensure breathability and wearing comfort.
(5) shear properties and sewing performance: good lining must be easy to cut and sew. When cut, due to mechanical friction effect, leaving the knife high temperature molten hot melt adhesive bonding shear on the knife, sometimes resulting in the cut stick together lining in the manufacture of a lining should be considered to these problems so that the metal hot melt adhesive has a good anti-blocking properties. (6) anti-aging properties: In addition to the poor made of PVC lining anti-aging properties, the rest are good anti-aging properties interlining, during storage and use during their bonding capacity will not change significantly.